
Le Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
2 stars, with an editor’s choice for Mercurey Premier Cru Les Veleys 2023
François Raquillet has excelled at Mercurey since 1990, giving wines of exemplary quality and unfailing consistency, which age very well. The handover is under way: his daughter Jeanne is on the estate, and converting to organic is among their next challenges. One or two of the more insistent barrel regimes could be dialled back, particularly on the whites. The wines: the whites are over-oaked, with showy wood. La Brigadière stays bracing and lemony, and Les Veleys offers broader, more buttery substance. The reds are far more accomplished: a gliding, supple, spirited profile in Chamirey, a crunchy, tangy wine to drink young. Firmer substance in Vieilles Vignes, a fairly dense red, finely extracted, its mellow tannins well integrated. The juicy Les Vignes des Chazeaux delivers intense, pure raspberry fruit: it shines by its vigour, its softness of texture and the accuracy of its ageing. Among the Premiers Crus, Les Naugues is robust and sun-filled, Les Vasées excellent with small black-fruit notes and velvety flavours. Worked breadth in Les Veleys, built on a solid tannic base, a little compressed by its ageing but not lacking potential. From a century-old Veleys vine, Révélation shows a pulpy juice run through with a nervy sap: its tannic grip on the finish points to its keeping ability.
Blancs
Rouges
Coup de cœur
Mercurey Premier Cru les Veleys 2023
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